RACCOONS IN MY ATTIC
HOW TO GET RID OF RACCOONS OUT OF AN ATTIC
No matter how you feel about Raccoons, at JOROBA PEST CORP, we only use humane methods of raccoon trapping, removal and control. Inspection is the most important part. Overall, removing raccoons from an attic seems like an easy task, but it can be challenging especially if there are babies or if the raccoon has been cage trapped in the past. We are frequently called to remove raccoons that other trappers cannot catch. Technique and advanced training are crucial in the success or failure of trapping for these difficult accounts.
Step 1: Inspect the property, structure, roof and attic.
Step 2: Identify the areas where the raccoon is entering
Step 3: Identify potential new areas that can easily be entered with little effort
Step 4: Determine if it is a single raccoon or a mother with babies (not always possible and this does change the process)
Step 5: Determine the type and quantity of removal devices needed as well as any clean up methods needed for feces in the attic
Step 6: Provide a written quote for trapping, exclusion (sealing up and/or repairing the damage)
RACCOON PREVENTION
Aside from building an enclosed bubble over your property, there is nothing that can keep a wild animal away from the outside of a structure. Repellents, sound machines and water sprayers do not work. However, the following will help with Raccoon Prevention.
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Remove Food and Water Sources
Just like other animals and insects, Raccoons are always searching for new food, water and harborage. Eliminating potential sources will reduce the chances of a Raccoon taking residence in your yard or structure. Remove and/or secure garbage cans so that Raccoons can’t access them (RACCOON PROOF GARBAGE CAN). Don’t leave pet food outside or in screened patios. Other areas of concern for Raccoons is fish ponds, vegetable gardens, fruit trees and bird feeders.
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Keep your Property Clean
Keep your property clean and free of debris that would allow a Raccoon to hide. Popular areas that Raccoons like to live and hide are: Attic, under porch, under or in shed. Keep trees and large shrubs away from the house. Raccoons will use trees to climb to the roof of structures.
If prevention fails, you’ll want to call a licensed professional raccoon trapper to safely remove the animal. YOU CAN CALL US ANYTIME
RACCOON DISEASE
Raccoons carry a variety of parasites and diseases. Disease is the biggest concern with raccoons. Raccoons are not pets, they are wild animals and should be treated as such. The majority of these are not dangerous to people but some are deadly. Rabies and distemper will kill raccoons. The risk of rabies is small in comparison but still should not be taken lightly. When populations become too dense, epizootic outbreaks can be a problem for people with unvaccinated pets.
Baylisascaris, also known as raccoon roundworm can be deadly in humans and dogs. Dogs become infected by eating or rolling in raccoon feces. As Professional Wildlife Trappers, we are at risk by transporting raccoons and handling untreated cages and trapping equipment. Incubation period is 1-4 weeks. Symptoms can include: Nausea, lack of attention to people and surroundings, tiredness, liver enlargement, loss of coordination, loss of muscle control, blindness and coma.
Besides rabies and parasites, raccoons can carry mites, fleas and ticks.
RACCOON FACTS
Raccoons are found throughout New York and are also one of the most intelligent. Adult raccoons are 2-3 feet long and weigh 10-30 pounds. Raccoons are nocturnal and are active during the evening and overnight hours. They are adaptable so they can be seen during the day. Single raccoons will have a home range of 1-3 square miles. Although it’s not common, foraging up to 18 miles has been documented. The males are usually more territorial than the females. Raccoons eat a variety of food and are not picky. Food sources include: fruits, acorns, seeds, bird and turtle eggs, fish, frogs, insects, dog food, cat food, dead animals and just about anything in your garbage can.
Females will have an average of four dens and will move from den to den. They live in hollowed trees, under decks, sheds, crawl spaces sewer drains, burrows and of course attics. Females will have one litter a year with 3-5 pups. The young are weaned at 10-12 weeks old and will stay with mother up to 10 months old.
There are few natural enemies for Raccoons. Bobcats, dogs, coyotes, large owls and alligators are the predators here in Florida. Some would say that automobiles (road kill) could also be considered a predator.
RACCOON REMOVAL COST
Raccoon trapping, raccoon removal and raccoon exclusion is specific to each structure and property. In order for us to know what to charge, we have to perform a thorough inspection. Any Qualified and Professional Wildlife Service Company will have spent money on licences, continuing training and insurance. When we buy insurance, one of the first questions the agent asks is “Do you work on roofs”? As soon as a company says yes, our premiums automatically triple.
Some of the Items we have to consider when providing a quote for Animal Trapping.
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Where are the animals living? Are the only outside or are they in the structure?
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How much damage have they done?
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Are there juveniles (babies)?
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How many areas need to be sealed up (closed)?
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Where are the areas that need to be sealed up? 1 story, 2nd story?
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How steep is the roof? What safety equipment do we need? What is our liability risk?
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What type of removal devices do we need and how many?
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How many visits will there be and how far away is it?
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Can we use a camera to monitor the trapping?
